Stitching with metal
The addition of metal in art quilts adds an element of beauty and contrast to the softness and drape associated with fibres and textiles. Copper, brass and colored aluminum metals are shown in the samples at left.
Metals are available in a variety of weights but should be fairly thin for stitching into art quilts .012 mm is quite thin and behaves like baking foil. Shim of about .015mm is good for stitching and probably the maximum thickness for use with a sewing machine. Note that cut metal is sharp and needs care when handling. You can file down the edges to reduce the sharpness. This is very important when working with metal mesh or thicker metals.When choosing wire, the larger the number, the thinner the gauge. We suggest a gauge of 24 for easy manipulation.
Heat can be applied to copper, silver or brass to make them softer and easier to use (the process is called annealing) Heating copper creates a patina look. This can be done by a propane torch, chef’s blow torch, some heat guns or candles
The heating process is necessary to soften the metal prior to use if a softer, more pliable metal is preferred. Hold metal with pliers, have good ventilation and a bowl of water nearby to drop the metal in. This process of quenching is required to maintain the bright color of the metal so it does not turn black.
The source of the heat, the type of metal, the duration and intensity of the heat are all factors influencing the results of the process. Color can also be added to the metal by the application of paint, dye, ink, embossing powder, puff paint, nail varnish, glass paint or foil adhered with foil glue.
Corrosive substances which can be used to treat the metal once it has been heated include salt, bleach, lemon juice, ammonia, patina antiquing agents and balsamic vinegar. Note it is important to use protective gloves and a respirator mask if fumes are to be involved.
This Lustr'ed cloth by Alysn Midgelow-Marsden and Viv Arthur is a great resource book for fibre artists interested in metal. They provide descriptions of metals and their characteristics and tools for cutting and heat distressing. The beautiful photography features examples of woven metal, beads and braids. A large section covers tips for stitching metal, recommendations for stabilizers, and lutradur. There is a selection of step by step projects including details on how to sew with dissolvable stabilizers and metal shim.
The Art of Stitching on Metal by Ann Parr is another excellent book. The author includes sections on how to create fantastic effects with heat, household substances, adding texture through stamping, stenciling and embossing. A thorough exploration of machine stitching covers everything from free motion stitching, woven strips, edging and a range of decorative finishes.
Both books provide suggestions and projects for stitching metals. A backing fabric such as felt, peltex, timtex or a heavy weight dissolving stabilizer is important to protect the bed of the sewing machine from scratches and gives the sharp metal edges of the metal something to become embedded into. A larger needle such as a 09/14 or a 100/16 is recommended, stitching with average speed. Once finished, label this needle for next time you stitch with metal. It is important to always clean your machine afterwards to remove slivers of metal or other substances that drop under the feed dogs.
